Hiking Up to Sungai Ara’s Emperor Villa
When we reached Sungai Ara, dark clouds had gathered in the sky.
I am a hiking amateur, and definitely not a morning person. Waking up at six in the morning is a tough task for me, but this time I got prepared for the morning hike with my Dad. At dawn, the sky was a shade of bluish-grey, with the sun round like an egg yolk.
Sungai Ara was where my grandmother grew up, where she used to catch grasshoppers and rear chickens. She studied in a Catholic school and saluted the British officers who would give them chocolates in exchange. Today, a Chinese school has replaced her childhood home. It is hard to find any traces of farm houses or Malay kampong houses in the area.
Passing by the school, Dad turned into a corner up to a slanted residential area. The entrance is near an Indian temple, with visitors’ cars occupying the roadside. A drizzle from the sky did not waver the determination of hikers to walk up the hill.
Hiking Experience
This hiking trail is relatively beginner-friendly. There are some challenging inclines on the way, but hikers can reach mid-way around thirty minutes.
The long rows of visitors going up the hill looked similar to a festive parade. The gaggles and whistles of the birds from the branches encouraged hikers to go further up. Aside from ferns and wildflowers, the hiking track has banana plantations along the slopes and plains. Visitors can stop by a few tin sheds where hill dwellers sell locally planted fruits.
The eroded asphalt path is wide enough for a car to go through. Whenever there was a large vehicle driving up or down the hill, we had to stand aside for the moving wheels. Dad drove up the hill when he brought my grandma last week. He considered himself lucky that he did not encounter any vehicle heading in the opposite direction.
The shower had become heavier. We had our umbrella with us, sheltering from the falling droplets from the trees. The early hikers were unlucky. Some sheltered themselves underneath the banana leaves, while some had drenched themselves wet. The rhythmic drops on the umbrella and the gushing noises rapid stream created a harmonious background music for the hiking experience.
Dim Sum In The Rain
If having dim sum along a hiking trail is one exciting experience, then having dim sum in a downpour takes dining to a whole new level.
The dim sum eatery is established for visitors to rest and fill their bellies before continuing their journey upwards. The indoor dining area above the counter was occupied. Our option was the yellow pavilions with pyramid-shaped roofs, which could barely shelter patrons from the wind-blown sprinkles. Even tissues could not wipe away the raindrops on the dampen tables and chairs.
Dad had returned with a plastic tray of nasi lemak, which was enough for one person. Then, a server came with a wooden dim sum steamer, shielding the steaming hot food from the rain’s attack with another tray. The food was decent; it might taste better if it was not for the bad weather.
The first visit to the place was perfect, Dad recalled, a Monday morning with no hikers and a fine sunny day. My nine-year-old cousin was cautious around the stream below, afraid that he might trip over and never be seen again. He was nervous about the woods, believing that the tigers, lions, foxes or pythons would emerge and eat him alive (kid’s imagination is wild).
What a shame. I initially wanted to sketch the location, but there was no way for us to stay any longer. After taking a few photos around, we continued our trail.
Wuxia RPG Inn
There was another five minutes hike before we could reach Emperor Villa (帝来山庄), the next spotlight of the hill. My shoes were drenched from the puddles, and dirt had reached my calf. Despite the uncomfortable soggy feet, I was distracted by the laksa flower plantation with pink lotus-like flowers growing from the ground.
“Can you guess what plant it is?” Dad pointed at a tree with oblong leaves. Without a hint of a fruit or flower, it was a tough guess.
“You’ll know when you reach the villa.”
The rain stopped miraculously once we arrived at our destination. The entrance pailou with hanging red lanterns showed a prosperous business, and the heavy gates were wide open to welcome the faraway travellers. Entering the portal, visitors would walk on a path with various plantations and flora.
I found the same tree with oblong leaves, but this one had borne large, oval-shaped green fruits. Those were, in fact, cacao fruits, in which the seeds were extracted for one of the world’s favourite sweet treats.
Venturing further inside, the scene revealed a few small sheds for food stalls, with the same lanterns dangling on the roof. The villa had a swimming pool, but the water looked repulsively green (turned out it was actually a feature). Above the fishpond was a timber pavilion for guests to admire the flowing willows, blooming purple bougainvillaeas, and large ferns. The environment gave a Wuxia fantasy RPG guild vibe, where players gathered around to receive quests, exchange information, and enjoy food.
Speaking of food, the focus of the visit was the villa’s restaurant. After going through a bamboo arch, the warm lighting within contrasted the bright sky. What makes this restaurant a well-known premise was the interior, an art gallery featuring illustrations and handcrafts from all around the world. Whether it was the Japanese woodblock print, European oil painting or Indian textile art, this place is a feast for an artist’s eyes. A pity that I could not take photos as the premise was packed with hikers.
If one is determined enough, there is another trail to a Chinese temple. However, I was quite lethargic from the morning walk, and there was a desperation to recharge my energy. The way back was unexpectedly quiet, just occasional vans and bikes coming through. On the way, Dad got himself a reddish-purple banana from a fruit stall (which turned out to be rich in flavour).
I heard Dad is planning to bring the family to a staycation in the villa someday. It might be an opportunity to venture more and hike further up to the temple.
Date of Visitation: 23rd April 2022
Address: Jl. Kenari, Sungai Ara, 11900 Bayan Lepas, Penang
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