Countryside Nasi Lemak at Abe
I thought I had to cancel the trip to Abe’s Nasi Lemak in Kepala Batas. Even Ruien showed her concern when I was dressing up for the occasion.
Hey, it’s raining outside.
Should we go somewhere else instead? I asked.
Soon, the heavy pour had gradually shifted into light drizzle.
I guess I have the power to stop the rain. Ruien typed.
Around four-thirty, we headed to the road up north towards Sungai Dua. It was the place where I spent my childhood before moving to the Chinese-populated area in Sungai Puyu. Turning into the lane after the police station, the suburban shop lots had changed to the green paddy fields and sturdy attap houses.
“I almost got lost in Kepala Batas once,” Ruien said. “The roads are very complicated.”
Kepala Batas roads can be quite meandering if you go deeper. However, the road to Abe’s nasi lemak eatery has no complicated turns. The entrance is a little narrow, so make sure no car is coming from the opposite direction.
There was only a group of police officers chatting near the entrance, emitting the same energy as the kopitiam middle-aged uncles. We arrived quite early or else this eatery would be filled with faraway customers during dinner hours.
The metal deck awning brought us closer to the peaceful countryside scenery, where we could smell the earthy after-rain aroma and feel the breeze’s tender touch. Occasionally, the sound of the motorbike engine would disturb the serenity as rowdy children went on their evening joyride.
What You Can Have There
Although they do offer Western food on their menu, we mainly came for their famous nasi lemak with ayam berempah (spiced chicken). Our complimentary drinks to balance the sambal’s spiciness were iced teh o and Milo o.
Food service was unexpectedly swift. The pyramid-shaped coconut rice was served on top of brown paper wrapping, with boiled egg, anchovies, peanuts, sliced cucumber and red sambal meticulously placed around it. Even our drinks arrived at the same time.
“Why does my teh o look like carrot juice?” Ruien sipped on the cold drink. “And it’s so sweet.”
My iced Milo o was neither overbearingly sweet nor watery. I had not drank milo for quite some time, and my Ma had stopped purchasing them out of concern for our sugar-intake. It would not hurt if I could have them when eating out, right?
The main course received my absolute praise. It ticked the checkbox of a good nasi lemak: fragrant rice, crunchy chicken wing, generous anchovies, and smooth and aromatic sambal.
“Sambal is the soul of nasi lemak,” Ruien pointed at the red sauce. “This one get the top score.”
“Malay people cook the best nasi lemak,” I said. “Which reminds me of the time I had the worst one.”
“How bad was it?”
“The rice had clumped together.”
Ruien knitted her eyebrows; the exact reaction when I got nasi lemak order from a Chinese restaurant. Coconut milk should be fully integrated with the rice to create a ‘lemak-flavoured’ rice. However, the creamy liquid had somehow turned semi-solid like large dandruff, which caused the rice to have a clumpy appearance.
Anyway, it is better to forget about that awful experience and indulge in this authentic Malaysian delicacy.
The Experience
If it tastes good, get takeaway for us.
This was what my Ma told me before leaving the house. I took out the two glass containers she gave me and handed them over to the counter. She even called me to get another nasi lemak packet for their guest at home.
Our after-dinner treat was a walk on the paddy field’s footpath. The rain had dampened the ground, but it made the evening less scorching. Plump chickens clucked and roamed around the compound, and the young crops danced along the wind.
When I used to live in Sungai Dua, we would pass by a crop field. Sometimes the plantation was overgrown, while some days the wet-field was naked. Back then, my main concern was finishing the bulky homework and endless revisions. There was no extra time to admire the local agriculture.
The path ahead was blocked by a puddle, so we headed home instead. I brought the nasi lemak to my parents and their guest, who were playing mahjong.
They too, liked the nasi lemak.
Overall Rating: 8/10
Date of Visitation: 13 March 2022
Location: Kampung Guar Kepayang, 13200 Kepala Batas, Penang
Opening Hours: 4-11pm (close on Wednesdays)
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